The activities included on this Web page are intended to help you maintain mathematical knowledge and concepts developed throughout for sixth grade. Over the summer, please take the opportunity to review these materials and complete several activities.
Activities are intended to be fun, provide choice and help you maintain math skills so, you arrive to seventh grade ready to pick up where we left off in June. Many of the activities are games we have played throughout the school year. In addition, there are a variety of excellent Web sites with fun puzzles, problem solving, and exciting games. I hope you have fun while you're working!
Please record the activities you complete, the date each activity is completed, and the signature of an adult on the math log.
Enjoy and have a great summer!
- Mrs. White
Hi, and welcome to Lemonade Stand! Your goal in this game will be to make as much money as you can within 30 days. To do this, you've decided to open your own business -- a Lemonade Stand! You'll have complete control over almost every part of your business, including pricing, quality control, inventory control, and purchasing supplies. You'll also have to deal with the weather, which can be unpredictable. Unfortunately, the weather will play a big part when customers are deciding whether or not to buy your product.
Materials Needed: Deck of Playing Cards
The Head Game - Allows you to practice addition and multiplication facts with just 3 players.
Directions: Remove all face cards (kings, queens, and jacks), then place deck of cards face down. Two players both draw one card each and place it against their head so their teammates can see it. The player who has not selected a card, either tells the players the sum or product of their addends or factors (operation is predetermined before each round). Then the two players with the cards on their heads have to figure out what number must be on their card based on the known product or sum and based on the card of their opponent. Whoever figures out their card the fastest receives that pile of cards. Continue to play game by alternating roles with your teammates until you have finished the deck.
Addition or Multiplication War - Allows you to practice addition and multiplication facts with 2 players.
Directions: Remove all face cards (kings, queens, and jacks) and the split the deck of cards in half between you and your teammate. Then place deck of cards face down. Next, you and your partner flip the top card of your pile at the same time. Whoever computes the sum or product (operation is predetermined beforehand) the fastest wins the cards. Continue to play until one player wins the entire deck just like the game War. (All the typical rules of War apply).
Least Common Multiple Game - 2 players. Practice finding the smallest common multiple of two numbers by using a deck of cards.
Directions: Remove all face cards (kings, queens, and jacks) and the split the deck of cards in half between you and your teammate. Then place deck of cards face down. Next, you and your partner flip the top card of your pile at the same time. Whoever finds the least common multiple (LCM) the fastest wins the cards. Continue to play until one player wins the entire deck just like the game War. (All the typical rules of War apply). To make the game more challenging flip two to four cards and find the least common multiple (LCM) of all the numbers.
Greatest Common Factor/Lowest Common Denominator - 2 to 4 players. Race your teammate(s) to find the greatest common factor (GCF) or lowest common denominator (LCD) of a pair of numbers.
Directions: Remove all face cards (kings, queens, and jacks) and the split the deck of cards between you and your teammate(s). Then place small decks of cards face down. Next, you and your teammates flip the top card of your pile at the same time. Whoever finds the GCF/LCD first wins the set of cards. Continue to play until one player wins the entire deck just like the game War. (All the typical rules of War apply). To make the game more challenging flip two to four cards and find the GCF/LCD of all the numbers. You can also try having each teammate flip two cards to create a two-digit number (the lower of your two cards flipped is the ones digit while the higher will be your tens digit) and then find the GCF/LCD.
Equivalent Fraction Memory - 2 to 4 players.
Directions: Make at home on index cards. Cut an index card in half. On one half write a fraction and on the other half write an equivalent fraction. Continue until you have cut approximately 10 index cards and create equivalent fractions. Now, you have a set of Equivalent Fraction Memory cards to use forever! Simply shuffle the cards, place them face down, and see if you can find the most matches - just like Memory.
Equivalent Fraction, Percent, and Decimal Memory - 2 to 4 players.
Directions: Make at home on index cards. Cut an index card in half. On one half write a fraction and on the other half write either an equivalent percent or an equivalent decimal. Continue until you have cut approximately 10-15 index cards creating equivalent fractions, percents, and decimals. Now, you have a set of Equivalent Fraction, Percent, and Decimal Memory cards to use forever! Simply shuffle the cards, place them face down, and see if you can find the most matches - just like Memory.
1/2 = 50% = 0.5
Race to Convert Improper Fractions to Mixed Numbers (in Simplest Form) - 2 to 4 players.
Directions: Two people write a number (2 to 3-digit numbers will work best) on a piece of paper. Share the numbers written with your teammates. The larger number will become your numerator while the smaller number will become your denominator (therefore creating an improper fraction). Now, see who can convert the improper fraction into a mixed number the fastest. Keep a tally of who wins each round. Whoever reaches 10 successful conversions the fastest wins.
24 - 2 to 6 players.
(Directions for Mancala, Kitty Whist, Cribbage, and Hearts can be found below.)
Real Life Applications While You're Out and About
Bills, Receipts, or Stores:
Figure out the tip at dinner (practices percents)
Find the mean, median, and mode of the prices on a receipt from a store (grocery, clothing, etc.)
On a grocery store receipt figure out what percentage of the bill is spent on vegetable, what percentage is spent on meat, what percentage is spent on drinks, and what percentage is spent on sweets or junk food. Option: Create a pie graph using this information.
Deli counter - convert customary measurement of items purchased to metric measurement.
In the Kitchen:
On the Road:
Traveling or at Home:
Examine the environment around you (at the beach, a museum, your house, your car, etc.) and identify lines of symmetry, tessellations, different types of polygons, acute, obtuse and right angles, etc.
Guess My Number
Here's a simple exercise that can be played almost anywhere, anytime (great car game!). Think of a three to four digit number that your child is comfortable understanding. It might be thousands or ten thousands, it might be 4,925. Give your child mathematical clues to help him/her guess the number. For example, if your number is 22, you might say "I'm thinking of a number that is..."
Vacation Scavenger Hunt
Kitty Whist Rules
When playing Solo, Nil solo or On Table, aces are the lowest card.
If the player bids 7-13, the player gets the opportunity to extend their bid. The extra bids are:
When the first player has bid the next player can try to beat it or bid pass. If a player beats the bid and the first player didn't pass, the first player can now try to beat the second player's bid. The bidding continue until one player has won. More than one player can play Solo or Nil Solo, but only one player can play On Table.
The bids are ranked as follows: seven, eight, nine, Solo, 10, Nil Solo, 11, On Table, 12, 13. 13 Clubs is highest possible bid. Solo is beaten by 9 Half, Nil Solo by 10 Half and On Table by 11 Half.
If a player has all the aces, the player can select a king as teamcard. If a player has all the aces and kings, the player can select a queen, and so on.
If an extra bid is Half, the teammate must select trump. The teammate is the player who has the teamcard. If the teamcard is in the kitty or the player who won bid has it on the hand, the player himself must select trump suit.
If an extra bid is Flip, the player who won the bid must flip kitty to determine trump suit. The player flips the first card in the kitty and decides if the card's suit is trump-suit. If not, the player flips the next card and so on. If all three cards in the kitty are flipped, the suit of the last card flipped is the trump-suit.
If playing Half the player who selected trump can trade cards in the kitty, again the player must trade three cards or none.
By any other bid, the player who won the bid can trade cards.
In subsequent tricks any card can lead the trick, and a teamcard can be trumped.
Taking A Trick
A joker played as a first card in a trick cannot be beaten by any card, including a trump. Jokers have no value if not played as the first card in a trick.
If the player plays their substitution-card, it is the lowest card in the teamcard suit, and can only take a trick if it is the first and only card in suit and it is not trumped.
Winning The Hand
Winning The Game
Hearts RulesHearts is a four-player card game. The game is played using a standard deck of cards (52 cards, no jokers). Our version of the game allows for one to four players to play, while untaken player positions are played by the CPU.
Playing the game
After the deal each player must select three cards from his or her hand to pass to an opponent. The cards must be selected before looking at the cards being received from an opponent. The direction of the pass alternates for each deal:
The first deal is passed left.
When nobody shoots the moon (as described below), the points taken by each player are added to their running total on the scoreboard.
Shooting the moon
Winning the game
Cribbage in England is primarily a pub game - indeed, it is one of the few games allowed by Statute to be played in a public house for small stakes. A game of low animal cunning where players must balance a number of different objectives, remain quick witted enough to recognise combinations, and be able to add up, it is perhaps not the most obvious of games to be so firmly associated with the English pub. It is a game where experience counts for a great deal - though luck, of course, has a large part.
It is also a game where etiquette is important. The rituals associated with cutting and dealing, playing and pegging, as well as the terminology, all serve the useful purpose of keeping things in order - and they help to give the game a flavour of its own. In card playing, as with food, authenticity matters.
Board and Pegs
When a player scores, the rear peg is moved in front of the forward peg by the same number of holes as the score to show the new total. This enables scores to be easily checked and acts as a visible statement of the progress of the game. Players peg up on the outside of the board and back on the inside. The winner is the first to peg out by exceeding 120.
The exact design of the board is not critical. The diagram shows the type of board most commonly used in Britain. In North America they come in a great variety of shapes. The essential feature is a track for each player with holes representing the numbers from 1 to 120.
It is usual to play best of three games. The opponent of the first dealer in the first game deals first and gets the first box in the second game. For the third game - if a decider is needed - there is a fresh cut to decide who deals first.
The dealer shuffles, the non-dealer cuts the cards [but see variations], and dealer deals 6 cards face down to each player one at a time. The undealt part of the pack is placed face down on the table. At the end of each hand, the played cards are gathered together and the whole pack is shuffled by the new dealer before the next deal.
If the start card is a jack, the dealer immediately pegs 2 holes - this is called Two for his heels.
Play of the cards
Ace = 1; 2 to 10 = face value; jack = 10; queen = 10; king = 10.
As each card is played, the player announces the running total - for example the non-dealer plays a king and says "10", the dealer plays an 8 and says "18", the dealer plays a jack and says "28", and so on. If a card is played which brings the total exactly to 31, the player pegs 2 claiming Thirty one for two as he does so.
A player who cannot play without exceeding 31 does not play a card but says Go, leaving his opponent to continue if possible, pegging for any further combinations made (see below). Bringing the total to exactly 31 pegs 2, but if the total is 30 or less and neither player can lay a card without going over 31, then the last player to lay a card pegs one for the go or one for last.
The cards that have been played are turned over and a fresh round of play starts with the cards remaining in the players' hands in exactly the same way. The opponent of the player who played last in the previous round (scoring Thirty one for two or One for last) plays first in the new round. This second round of play starts again from zero and again continues until neither can play without going over 31. The last player again scores "1 for last" or "31 for 2", and if either player has any cards left there is a further round. Play continues for as many rounds as necessary until both players' cards are exhausted. Towards the end, it may happen that one player has run out of cards but the other still has several cards. In that case the player who still has cards simply carries on playing and scoring for any combinations formed until all his cards have been played.
Example: Player A has king-king-2-2; player B has 9-8-7-6.
First round: A plays king - "10"; B plays 6 - "16"; A plays king - "26"; B says "go"; A plays 2 - "28"; A plays 2 - "30 for 3". A pegs 3, namely 2 for the pair of twos and 1 for playing the last card of this round.
Second round: B plays 8 - "8"; A has no cards left so cannot do anything; B plays 7 - "fifteen two" (B pegs 2 points); B plays 9 "24 for 3 and 1 for last" (B pegs 4 points: three for the run 7-8-9 and one for playing the last card).
Please note: it is never possible to score "one for last" and "31 for 2" at the same time. They are alternatives. If you make exactly 31 for two points just peg those two points - you do not get an additional "one for last" in this case.
Tactical note: It is often worth keeping low cards in hand for this phase of the game, especially when there is a strong possibility of being able to peg out before one's opponent.
Scoring during the play A player who makes any of the following scores during the play pegs them immediately.
Note that to score for pair, pair royal, double pair royal or run, the cards must have been played consecutively during a single round of play. If one player had to say "go" while the combination was being formed, the combination is still valid, but if both players are unable to play, causing a new round of play to be started from zero, all combinations are started afresh.
Example 1: Player A has 10, 10, 9, 6; player B has 7, 6, 5, 4.
A plays 9, B plays 6 (scoring fifteen two), A plays 6 (scoring two for a pair), B plays 5. The total is now 26; A has to say "go", so B plays 4, scoring three for a run, plus one for last. The A begins again with 10, B plays 7, and A plays the other 10, scoring one for last.
Example 2: Player A has 10, 8, 7, 5; player B has 7, 6, 5, 4.
A plays 8, B plays 7 (scoring fifteen two), A plays 7 (scoring two for a pair), B plays 6. The total is now 28; neither can play, so B scores one for last. If A now begins again with a 5, A does not score for a run, because the 7 and 6 were played in the previous round of play (before the total was reset to zero).
Note that when scoring a hand, the same card may be counted and scored as part of several different combinations. For example if your hand is 7 8 8 K and the start card is a 9 you score Fifteen 2, fifteen 4, and a pair is 6, and a run is 9 and a run is 12 - 12 holes to peg, with each of your 8s forming part of a fifteen, a pair and a run.
After non-dealer's hand has been shown and the score pegged, dealer's hand is shown, scored and pegged in the same way. Finally the dealer exposes the four cards of the crib and scores them with the start card. The scoring is the same as for the players' hands except that a flush in the crib only scores if all four crib cards and the start card are of the same suit. If that happens the flush scores 5.
Muggins (optional rule)
Winning the game